Rwanda ~ The Bitter Last Day

September 9, 2010
I'd like to say that everything on the Rwanda press trip was magical and went off without a hitch. If I said that, though, I wouldn't be entirely truthful. It wasn't all gorilla treks in the mountains. There were some things that happened, or rather didn't happen, on the trip that really put a sour taste in my mouth. And it hasn't gotten any better since my return to the States. I'm saddened and angered by this, but I also believe I've learned a valuable lesson.

I received an itinerary (left) from my contact at Racepoint Group, the public relations organization acting as our group's point of contact for the trip to Rwanda. Everything seemed good, so I agreed to go. I booked my flight, got my vaccinations, and tied up other loose ends in order to make it happen. It was all at a hefty personal cost, but I felt it was worth it since some amazing opportunities were being presented.

The flight and vaccinations were all my financial responsibility as I said, but the in-country expenses our group was told would all be handled by the Rwanda Development Board (RDB). They were to act as our host, and as such they'd pay for everything with the exception of souvenirs and alcohol. I felt that was fair when I agreed to the press trip, but shortly after our arrival problems began to surface.

With the exception of our hotels, everything seemed good at first. But then, we were told by our RDB guide that things like coffee and soda would no longer be covered for the rest of the trip, or there'd be a one drink maximum. Various other minor expenses we were apparently accountable for, like tips for porters on the gorilla hike, also began to pop up. The costs weren't substanial, but it was the first indication that we were mislead.

The second indication came when we arrived in the border town of Gisenyi on Lake Kivu. That's when the first item on our itinerary, a tour of the city, was scrubbed because of time. In a post-trip interview with Racepoint I was questioned why the gorilla trek took so long. It was because of the length of our hike that the city tour didn't happen, or so I was told. As I reflected on the trip during my 45 hours straight of return travel, I concluded that it was simply because of poor planning since there was no way the gorilla trek could have been completed any earlier.

Regardless, missing the city tour wasn't a huge blow to the trip. There were some things that would have been nice to see, like the Primus Brewery, but the trip wouldn't be a flop without it. That, instead, happened on the next two days, the last two, of the trip. We missed two big items on the itinerary due to the poor pre-trip planning. And had I known that the evening trek to see the Colobus monkeys, and the canopy walk through the Nyungwe National Park wouldn't happen, I probably would not have have agreed to go on the trip.

So, three big items on the trip didn't happen, and we were shorted on the Igitaramo Festival by arriving late to Ruhengeri after our drive from Kigali. About the only thing that did go completely right was the Kwita Izina and World Environment Day celebrations, but that was in large part to a language barrier that benefited us. Our RDB guide left us shortly after our arrival and gave us no assistance while we were there. The only reason why interviews with President Kagame and actor Don Cheadle happened were because of our own persistence.
But, still, the day went right and things were good at that point. Unfortunately everything else went downhill, particularly on that last day as we drove back to Kigali for our flights. The canopy walk at the Nyungwe National Park didn't happen because construction on the walk actually isn't complete. So we briefly stopped at an overlook, and instead filled the time with a visit to the Institute of National Museums of Rwanda, the national museum. And that was hardly a worthwihle substitute since, even though we were on a government sponsored trip, we were unable to take photos inside.
Our group consistently complained to representatives of Racepoint Group upon our return about the shortfalls of the trip and how we felt we were mislead with the itinerary. Our RDB representative told us while we were on the trip he told them that it couldn't happen, and insisted that they didn't listen to him. But Racepoint passed the buck back to RDB saying it was their itinerary and their responsibility.

The group, myself included, requested compensation be made for our flights since only approximately half of our itinerary happened. RDB, having taken over the talks from Racepoint, said it was impossible to compensate us financially, but that they'd provide an all-expenses paid return trip to Rwanda for all of us if we could go in a certain time frame. Two of the five of us said we could go, which helped alleviate some of the bitterness, but the days came and went without a flight or hotel booked.

The return trip didn't happen, and we are once again in contact with RDB for compensation that probably will never happen. At least I'm not going to hold my breath for it. Their head of tourism and conservation, Rica Rwigamba, says that, "as an institution in charge of tourism promotion, it does totally contradict (their) purpose" to have negative press trips. "We do not...mislead anyone intentionally. Things may go wrong and they do go wrong sometimes, but we always aim at positively addressing those." Yet the return trip she promised on behalf of RDB and the government of Rwanda never happened, much to the further financial detriment to some members of the group.


So what's the lesson learned? It's simple: Don't take a half-paid press trip to a politically unstable country who has a public relations outlet trying to spin them into something they're not, no matter how interesting or beautiful it may appear. Without a doubt there are still problems in Rwanda, and I naively looked past them. I was blinded with excitement by the itinerary we were offered. It all seemed too good to be true. And, as it turns out, it was.

Read this article in The Guardian to understand more about the current issues in Rwanda.
 

Going to the Top of the Rock

August 12, 2010
The last time I was in New York City I made my way to the top of the iconic Empire State Building - all 102 floors. With the World Trade Center gone, it's without a doubt the most well known building in New York. Heck, it may've even been that way when the towers still stood. But on this trip to the city, I was most interested in getting to the Top of the Rock, or Rockefeller Center.

A ticket to go to the Top of the Rock was also included in my complimentary City Pass from the Travel Bl...

Continue reading...
 

A Walk Through Downtown Manhattan

July 30, 2010
I completed a repeat visit to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island since, on my trip a year previous, I was unable to give either of them the time they really deserved in the cold and rain. Albeit a bit warm and muggy, it was a beautiful day to spend between the two islands to do a bit of exploring. I climbed to the top of the Statue of Liberty crown, sweating like I was in the gym for hours, and wandered through the museum, taking my time to admire one of America's best symbols of freedom....

Continue reading...
 

A National Parks Pass Review

July 27, 2010
A year ago I purchased an annual pass for the U.S. National Park Service, (left) and made it a point to hit as many places as I could during the life of the pass. I wanted to get out and experience more of the natural world around me, as well as learn about the history of important events and places that I maybe didn't know about before I purchased my pass. Some of the places I had visited before, like Rocky Mountain National Park (above)here in Colorado, but overall I'd give it the big ol...

Continue reading...
 

Rwanda ~ Cruising Lake Kivu

July 22, 2010
The 1,040 square mile surfaced Lake Kivu makes up the western border between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. On the second-to-the-last day on our tour of Rwanda, our day would be spent cruising south from the town of Gisenyi to Cyangugu, where we'd reunite with our drivers and head to the Nyungwe Forest Lodge for the night. Of course, when I say "cruise," I mean it in the loosest sense in this instance since our ride was by dual engine speed boat.

We sped south,...

Continue reading...
 

Stalking Washington in the Met

July 15, 2010
Hot dog in hand, I entered Central Park from the American Museum of Natural History and wandered through the Ramble on my way to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I didn't dilly, or dally, though as I was on a mission. I was going to the museum to see the famous American painting by Emanuel Leutze of Washington Crossing the Delaware; when I was in New York City a little over a year previous I stopped at the Met only to find that it was not on display since the area was being renovated.

We...

Continue reading...
 

A Return to the American Museum of Natural History

July 12, 2010
I was insistent that I would delve into the American Museum of Natural History on my return visit to New York City since, on my previous trip, I only ran by the highlights since I arrived so late. I really wanted to get there early, spend hours in the halls, and maybe see a show or two that was playing. After all, the museum is one of the highest rated stops in the city, and one of the best in the whole country.

Well, that was the plan until jetlag reared it's ugly head over a two hour t...

Continue reading...
 

Rwanda ~ Gorilla Trekking in the Virungas

July 7, 2010
I wrestled with the idea of hiking to see the gorillas of the Virunga Mountains in northwest Rwanda. On one hand, an African safari was high up on my bucket list and going to see the gorillas in their native habitat would be nothing short of spectacular. On the other, what would happen if one of these critically endangered animals acted in a way that's only natural if, for some odd reason, they felt a member of their group was threatened by one of us?

...

Continue reading...
 

Not Doing New York Like a New Yorker

July 5, 2010
The sun was just beginning to set, and the humidity lift, as I strolled along a path, coming upon a small dog park on the west side of Madison Square Park, just under the shadow of the highly-photographed Flatiron Building. The urge to people watch suddenly struck me so I plopped down on a bench and watched the pet owners come and go, all the while wondering if they would one day come to look more like their dog than they had hoped when they purchased the animal.

I sniggered at this a b...

Continue reading...
 

TBEX 2010 ~ New York City

June 29, 2010
I wanted to travel to New York City for the Travel Blog Exchange (TBEX) conference to try to become a better blogger, as well as to meet some people I had talked with on Twitter for quite some time. I wouldn't exactly say I wanted to network since, to me, that implies business, and blogging about travel is definitely more of a hobby and passion of mine than anything like a business. For me, going to New York City was just a way to meet up with a bunch of friends who also like writing about ...

Continue reading...
 

Countries I've Visited